Isla Lin
DES 040A
Prof. Cristina Cogdell
June 4, 2024
Raw Materials Used in the Life Cycle of NARS Powder Blush
Introduction
The cosmetics industry has been continuously developing throughout the years and has taken steps to make the sourcing of ingredients and raw materials more sustainable (1), with brands like NARS leading the way in innovation and quality. NARS powder blush, which features 20 fresh and bestselling shades with a weightless feel (2), is particularly celebrated for its vibrant colors and smooth application. This research paper looks into the raw materials used in the life cycle of NARS powder blush, focusing on each stage from material extraction to the final product.
Mica
Mica is a crucial component of NARS powder blush, valued for its shimmering quality, which adds a luminous glow to the blush. Mica is common in granitic pegmatite and is also an important rock-forming mineral (3). It is a naturally occurring mineral found in countries like India, Brazil, and China. The mining process involves extracting large quantities of ore from mica-rich deposits, followed by a series of processes to isolate and purify the mica.
The extraction of mica involves surface mining and open-pit mining techniques. Once mined, the mica ore undergoes initial cleaning to remove impurities and is then ground into fine particles. This grinding process creates the glittery powder essential for cosmetic applications. Further refinement processes include sieving and flotation to ensure the mica is of cosmetic grade quality, free from contaminants.
Separating mica from the other components in the blush is difficult, therefore recycling it from finished products is not common practice.
Talc
Talc, another primary ingredient in NARS powder blush, is known for providing a smooth texture. Its two winning properties make it very suitable for this role, which is its outstanding spreadability for a smooth application and its low covering power, aka translucency, to avoid clown-like effects (4). Talc is a mineral composed of magnesium, silicon, and oxygen and is the softest known mineral with a pearly luster (5). It is mined from deposits primarily found in countries such as China, India, and the USA.
Talc extraction involves open-pit mining, where large chunks of talc ore are blasted and then transported to processing plants. At these plants, the ore undergoes crushing and grinding to produce fine talc powder. Purification processes ensure that the talc is safe for cosmetic use, removing any asbestos fibers or other impurities that might be present.
Similar to mica, talc particles are small and require significant processing to be reused, which makes it hard to recycle them from finished products.
Pigment
Natural pigments are derived from plant, animal, or mineral sources. The accumulation of natural pigments determines the floral coloration in most flowering plants (6). For example, carmine is a red pigment derived from cochineal insects, while iron oxides are commonly used mineral pigments that provide a range of hues from red to yellow.
Synthetic pigments are created through chemical processes to produce consistent and vibrant colors. These pigments are essential for achieving the wide array of shades offered by NARS powder blush. Synthetic pigments undergo rigorous testing to ensure they are safe for use in cosmetics and do not cause skin irritation.
Pigments, both natural and synthetic, are often mixed with other ingredients, making separation and reclamation difficult.
Caprylic Triglyceride
Caprylic triglyceride, or capric triglyceride, is a compound that combines fatty acids from natural oils, such as coconut oil, with glycerin. (7)
The compound is a stable alternative to other oils. Cosmetics and makeup containing fatty compounds may use caprylic triglyceride. Manufacturers may prefer the compound over other options because it is smooth but not sticky or greasy. (7)
Isododecane
Isododecane is a colorless liquid that is commonly found in many cosmetic, hair care, and skincare products. (8)
Isododecane enhances the texture of the formulation and increases the spreadability of the product. It is a non-comedogenic ingredient and does not block the pores or cause acne. The matte finish that Isododecane provides is much loved. (8)
Plastic
Plastic is an incredibly versatile category of materials that are used in packaging, construction, medical equipment, and electronics (9). It is often used for the outer casing and sometimes for inner components. High-quality plastics such as ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) or acrylic are common due to their durability and aesthetic appeal.
Many cosmetic containers are made from recyclable plastics like PET or PP. If properly sorted, these can be recycled into new plastic products.
Metal
Some compacts feature metal parts for hinges or clasps, typically made from aluminum or stainless steel for their strength and lightweight properties.
Components like aluminum parts can be melted down and reused.
Glass
Occasionally, small mirrors within the compact are made of glass, though plastic mirrors are also common.
Cardboards
Cardboard packaging are among the most economical packaging types. Using less raw materials, more durable but thin, light, economical cardboard is produced (10). It is used for outer boxes that provide structure and protection. Cardboard is often sourced from recycled materials to enhance sustainability.
Paper
Thin layers of tissue paper or paper inserts might be used for cushioning and separating individual items within a box.
Conclusion
The life cycle of NARS powder blush, from the extraction of raw materials to the disposal of the finished product, involves a series of intricate processes. Each stage is crucial for ensuring the quality and performance of the product that consumers love. By examining these stages, we gain a deeper appreciation for the importance of each raw material used and recycled in its production.
Sources Used
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Aubrey Vanson
Isla Lin, Mimi Leonard
DES 040A
Professor Cogdell
Embodied Energy of NARS Powder Blush
Introduction:
NARS Cosmetics is a French cosmetics and skincare company, founded in 1994. They are recognized for their minimalist matte black packaging created by Fabien Baron, who designed this signature look for the brand. Among their wide variety of products, one of their most popular is their Powder Blush, advertised with up to 16-hour wear and strong color payoff. Part of its appeal is the product’s risqué shade names, which have easily caught the attention of makeup buyers. Through their digital platforms, NARS is very transparent about the materials in their blush, which was reformulated recently to be vegan. However, the energy utilized to produce this product is less evident to customers. This paper seeks to analyze the energy consumption of NARS Powder Blush, from when its raw materials are extracted to the disposal of the product. The fossil fuel inputs needed for the production of NARS Powder Blush significantly contribute to its overall impact on the environment. Although its energy usage is not mentioned on the item's website description, it is something the brand should strive to explore for improved clean energy and sustainability.
Raw Materials Acquisition:
To make this cosmetic product, the primary step in its life cycle is the acquisition of raw materials. This acquisition of materials involves chemical energy, as well as fossil fuels and human labor. Materials in this specific blush are both naturally derived and synthetically produced. Some of the main ingredients in NARS Powder Blush—as listed on their website— include mica, synthetic fluorphlogopite, and zinc stearate. Synthetic fluorphlogopite is a synthetic alternative to mica, composed of aluminum and manganese (SpecialChem). Mica, zinc, aluminum, and manganese are all obtained through mining. Machine labor is first used to excavate soil and rock on top of ore. Once the heavy lifting is completed, humans will use hand tools like drills, picks, and shovels to further extract raw minerals. After, these materials will be transported to factories to be combined and converted into secondary materials, like the compound ingredients listed by NARS. The machinery employed for mining “run on fossil fuels that release CO2 and other pollutants, while explosives produce carbon monoxide, which also contributes to global warming” (MIT Climate Portal). Compared to other industries, the energy consumed for mining is not as detrimental as some, but still has a notable impact on carbon emissions. Many mining companies are attempting to swap fossil fuels with low-carbon electricity which should be a cleaner alternative. A great deal of chemical energy is released as these cosmetic minerals are extracted and processed, and a mixture of both human and machine labor is necessary for these phases.
Product Manufacturing:
After the materials have been extracted and acquired for the product, these resources undergo manufacturing processes. To make this blush, its mineral ingredients and pigments are combined by large industrial mixers in factories. Then, this mixture undergoes a wet grinding process to break down any large particles and create a smooth, fine powder. Machine dispensers will add a liquid binder to the mix, then workers will hand press it into pans. They undergo a quality check before being placed into their final packaging. Similar to raw material acquisition, both machine and human labor are required for manufacturing. The primary employment of technologies to complete production means labor for workers isn’t too intensive; but in turn, more emissions are given off by factories. The machines in these factories rely on electricity and natural gas to power them. Because of the usage of advanced machinery, thousands of a single makeup product can be produced in a short amount of time. This strongly contributes to the issue of overconsumption and excess waste. The manufacturing processes for sectors like cosmetics has actually shown slight improvements in recent years. According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, “U.S. manufacturing is becoming more fuel-efficient and less labor-intensive since 1998. Manufacturing gross output grew by 12% while fuel consumption decreased by 16%” (EIA). The growth in fuel efficiency is positive, meaning there is a decreasing reliance on fossil fuels within operating factories. Still, manufacturing is not entirely clean and could be studied to reduce waste and the production of pollutants.
Transportation and Distribution:
Transportation occurs all throughout the life cycle for NARS Powder Blush, as materials are brought to factories and products are brought to consumers. On their website and company information, NARS is indirect about where their products are originally manufactured. Operating under the Shiseido Company, it can be assumed that many of NARS Cosmetics are manufactured in Japanese factories. Other suppliers for NARS are presumably based in China and Canada. The cosmetics from Asia are packed on container ships and sent to the United States, where many consumers are based. From here, planes and trucks are utilized for further deliveries. It’s important to note that since NARS has internationally based manufacturers, their shippers travel greater distances, as compared to cosmetic companies based on U.S. assemblage. Products like cosmetics often rely on fast shipping and transportation, which consumes great deals of chemical energy and fossil fuels. Vehicles require power from petroleum products like crude oil and gasoline which are harmful to the natural world. Transportation is responsible for roughly 15% of global Greenhouse Gases and is a “major contributor to other air pollutants” (Stanford Energy). The vehicles used to distribute this product are one of the biggest factors regarding its overall environmental impact. It is convenient that the blush is a small, compact product, allowing thousands to be transported at once, but this still doesn’t exemplify strong sustainability. Cosmetic companies should consider funding for electric or natural gas powered vehicles to distribute their products and lessen their environmental damage.
Use, Reuse, and Maintenance:
The usage of this blush employs kinetic energy, as the blush is cosmetically applied to a person’s face. The blush’s pigment is meant to add color to the cheek area. There isn’t a way to maintain the product self-sufficiently; if the product runs out, the consumer would have to purchase another. Compared to the other stages of the product’s life cycle, this phase requires the lowest amount of energy. All the energy here is derived individually from the consumer.
Recycling and Waste Management:
When the customer uses all the product’s content, what’s left of the packaging is typically sent to disposal. NARS Cosmetics packaging is primarily made of plastics and is not easily recycled. Thus, it is intended to be thrown away when empty or expired. Returning customers can choose to buy a blush refill for cheaper, which excludes the exterior black packaging. This helps reduce the amount of plastic waste produced and users can recycle their original blush containers. Customers who do not choose to repurchase the product can dispose of it in their household trash. From household waste, the product will be transported to a landfill, where it will be broken down by machine labor. These machines utilize mechanical and electrical energy to grind the leftover plastics of the product into pieces. The waste from the blush may also be incinerated, utilizing thermal energy. This however, necessitates a much greater amount of energy than traditional landfill equipment. The energy which incineration gives off is about 500 to 600 kWh of electricity per ton (Wikipedia). Incinerating what’s left of the blush may be beneficial in contributing to the production of more electricity, but it requires more energy to begin the process. Thus, there are both benefits and drawbacks to consider with this method of disposal. Many modern cosmetic brands have switched to/promoted recyclable packaging, extending the sustainable value and life cycle of their products. NARS should consider this as a more environmentally friendly alternative to the plastic containers they currently use.
Conclusion:
The amount and type of energy utilized to produce NARS Powder Blush varies throughout the many stages of its life cycle. There’s also a lot of overlap with materials and waste during the product’s life, as these areas correlate with each other over various phases. Much of this information is generalized and not particular to NARS, as their company is not highly transparent about their manufacturing and distribution processes. There wasn’t a lot of available information beyond ingredients and usages from the brand itself, so I formulated a lot of my ideas based on the practices of similar cosmetic companies and their energy outputs. I found this entire research journey to be very informative to me as a consumer. While I have personally used NARS blush before, I also use many other cosmetic products. Thus, this led me to think deeply about the energy required for the beauty industry as a whole. There are small swaps beauty brands can make to reduce their carbon footprint, but it’s unlikely that the industry will completely forfeit its reliance on fossil fuels and non-renewable energy. Ultimately, cosmetic companies favor fast production and cheaper energy forms to yield higher profits and attract more customers. Having more transparency regarding the life cycles of products will help consumers make informed decisions and choices that may benefit the environment and themselves.
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per%20hour
Mimi Leonard
Professor Christina Cogdell
Des 040 A06
June 5, 2024
Waste Produced by NARS Powder Blush
The NARS powder blush is an iconic staple in many people’s makeup routine, but what waste is produced in its making? Although the materials used in the container of the NARS powder blush present issues involving biodegradability, Shiseido has made it their goal to find solutions to these problems and make drastic reductions to their output of waste
To understand the solution to waste management for this product, the components and materials must be understood as well. The packaging of a NARS powder blush can be put into two categories: primary packaging and secondary packaging. Primary packaging refers to the container housing the powder, while secondary packaging is the container housing the primary packaging (Gatt et al., 2022). For this product, the primary packaging can be further split into five parts: the lid, pin, base, pan, and base plate (Gatt et al., 2022).
Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) is used for the main parts of the container housing the product (i.e the lid, base, and base plate) (Gatt et al., 2022). This is a chemically resistant resin that is both biocompatible and recyclable. It can be blended with new material to produce products that are high quality and low cost. Additionally, it is considered non-toxic and harmless (“Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS Plastic): Uses, Properties & Structure”). For the pin, stainless steel is used (Gatt et al., 2022).
This material is corrosion resistant and durable, has high recyclable rates and recapture rates, and is 100% recyclable (“Sustainability - SSINA”). As for the pan, a circular aluminum container is used (Gatt et al., 2022). Aluminum is an infinitely recyclable material. In addition, recycling aluminum to create new products only takes 5% of the energy used to make new aluminum products. It is also one of the most recycled materials, with 75% of all aluminum ever produced still being in use (“Sustainability – Recycling | Aluminum Association”).
Other polymers typically used in cosmetic containers are polyethylene, polypropylene, acrylonitrile butadiene styrene and polyvinyl chloride, in addition to special polymer processing additives like Kynar Flex PVDF (Gatt et al., 2022). These additives are added in amounts varying between 0.02%-0.08% depending on the weight, and help enhance the mechanical properties and smooth surface defects (Gatt et al., 2022).
All of these are easily recyclable, but if left on their own, would take hundreds of years to decompose. This is the downside of using plastic in packaging. The actual recycle rates are abysmal compared to its potential. The rate of plastic being recycled is 8.7%, and since 1950, only 9% of the world’s plastic has been recycled (Plastic Pollution Coalition, 2022). Much of it ends up in landfills or polluting wildlife. By 2030, the plastic industry is expected to exceed coal-fired power in terms of environmental impact (Gatt et al., 2022). This is exacerbated by the excessive quantities of both primary and secondary packaging used in cosmetic products (Gatt et al., 2022). In 2018, more than 120 billion units of cosmetic packaging were recorded to be produced (Plastic Pollution Coalition, 2022).. That same year, 7.9 billion units of rigid plastic were produced for beauty and personal care products (Plastic Pollution Coalition, 2022).. In the 2022 Shiseido sustainability report, they revealed their plans to have completely sustainable products by 2025 (Shiseido). The overarching strategy to reach this goal is by promoting recyclable and reusable design, in addition to using biomass-derived post-consumer recycled materials (Shiseido). To achieve this Shiseido is using their 5Rs approach: respect, reduce, reuse, recycle, replace (Shiseido). To reduce the amount of plastic used in their products, they have optimized the size of the packaging to fit the product (Shiseido). They have also downscaled the weight, and offer refillable packaging (Shiseido). Their Life Cycle Assessment has shown that refillable packaging decreases the amount of resources used, waste, and the emissions of greenhouse gasses compared to continuously disposing of regular primary packaging (Shiseido). Additionally, in 2022 Shiseido China collaborated with the Ministry of Ecology & Environment (MEE) and the Alibaba group to publish China’s first white paper on beauty products (Shiseido). This reported their proposal on issues involving their cosmetic products. Shiseido has also announced its plans to continue collaboration with the MEE and Alibaba group to promote the use of refillable products and support sustainable consumer behaviors (Shiseido).
For the recycled portion of the Shiseido 5 R’s, they plan to use materials that are more easily sorted and reused without having to compromiseon the quality of their products (Shiseido). To advocate for recycling, they have implemented the “BeauRing” program. The name is an amalgamation of “Beauty” and “Ring” to promote the goal of connecting people to their environmental actions (Shiseido). This is a circular model project that aims to increase the reuse of materials (Shiseido). In the pilot test for this program, they collected all forms of old plastic packaging in-stores without the need for sorting or washing the product beforehand to make it more user-friendly (Shiseido). The collected containers are then taken to the Shiseido Global Innovation Center, where they are analyzed based on the guidelines provided to the consumers, the volume of containers, and whether the frequency of the containers collected is appropriate (Shiseido). Once the amount of containers reaches a suitable size, they are taken to be recycled using the appropriate procedures and technology (Shiseido).
Shiseido then uses an initiative in collaboration with SEKISUI CHEMICAL CO., LTD and Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd to recycle their packaging (Shiseido). This collaboration involves creating a circular economy through which plastic in cosmetic containers is recycled without separating the materials (Shiseido). First, Shiseido collects the used containers. Then SEKISUI CHEMICAL converts the combustible waste into ethanol. Lastly, Sumitomo Chemical manufactures the polyolefin from the ethanol, which is then used to produce packaging (Shiseido).
In addition to the issue of recycling material, they have also taken steps to reduce their water waste (Shiseido). Due to each factory being different in order to specialize to the specific product they are producing, Shiseido has designed specific water initiatives for each site (Shiseido). Some of these initiatives include using automatic cleaning so that equipment is cleaned more effectively and consolidating washing locations of equipment parts (Shiseido). These have successfully reduced the water used per wash by 30% (Shiseido). At one of the factories in Taiwan, 100% of the wastewater from the onsite water purification system was reused (Shiseido). At another factory in Japan, they introduced a circular system that utilized reused water to cool the manufacturing tanks (Shiseido). In 2022 alone, it reduced water usage by around 65,000 m^3 (Shiseido). Another goal is to optimize pure water manufacturing equipment. This consumes around half of all water used in factories, and through this initiative, water consumption was reduced by 72,000 m^3 . This is around one third of the company’s total water consumption (Shiseido). Additionally, they conduct water footprint assessments to gain knowledge on the impact water consumption has on the environment (Shiseido). They also attended “Study Group on Water, Climate Change and Sustainable Development” organized by professor Oki Taikan of the University of Tokyo, whose expertise is in hydrology. Through this meeting, they were educated on the latest research findings on the characteristics of water resources, water availability, and the future change forecast associated with climate change (Shiseido).
As for their airborne waste, Shiseido has also scrupulously taken measures to reduce their emissions of greenhouse gasses. Their goal is to be carbon neutral by 2026 and to reduce CO2 emissions by 46.2% by 2030 (Shiseido). To reach these goals, they have supported the Paris Agreement as well as the Glasgow Climate Pact and have aligned with their aims to cut CO2 emissions to meet the 1.5 degree celsius target ahead of 2030 (Shiseido). In addition, they are always working to increase their use of renewable energy, and by the end of 2022 they were operating all factories on 100% carbon neutral electricity (Shiseido). In fact, renewable electricity accounts for 75% of all electricity used throughout the Shiseido group (Shiseido). They have also been installing solar panels on and within their factories and research centers. Currently, 9 factories have solar power generation facilities, and they switched to 100% renewable energy for the Shiodome and Ginza headquarters (Shiseido). They have also been working to increase energy efficiency through improved heat insulation in their factories, more energy efficient equipment, new environmental measures based on the ISO 14001 environmental management system, LED lighting, and by installing Energy Management Systems (Shiseido). Lastly, they have sandwich panels in the Japan logistics hub. These are lightweight and have excellent insulation as well as help reduce CO2 emissions generated by operations in the facility by 30% (Shiseido).
However, these initiatives do not prevent the waste caused by using the product and washing it off. The wastewater produced by this is characterized by a high amount of suspended solids as well as colorants, oil, and emulsions used in the blush (JMDesign). Fortunately, this water can be treated. The first step is pretreatment which combines ACAF to separate fats and oils, coagulation-flocculation to agglomerate solids in suspension, and DAF systems to separate the suspended systems and part of the organic matter (JMDesign). The next step is a biological treatment to remove chemical oxygen demand and other nutrients (JMDesign). Lastly, the water is treated through the application of reverse osmosis to increase its quality (JMDesign).
Although cosmetics tend to produce high rates of waste, Shiseido, the parent company of NARS, has made sustainability one of their most important goals and have created several initiatives to reduce the waste created by their products. They have achieved producing zero waste to landfills by their factories, and in the next few years they aim to be carbon neutral and reduce their overall wastewater. As for the waste created by consumers, they can reuse the packaging or bring it to stores to have it fully recycled, and the wastewater created can be treated and reused.
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