Design Life-Cycle
assess.design.(don't)consume
Kelly Wang
Des40A Section 3
Group 1
Topic: New Balance 530s
June 5, 2024
Materials Used in New Balance 530s
In the age of growing social media influence, many fashion trends come and go with unprecedented speed due to the ever-shifting tastes of consumers. Amidst this whirlwind of fleeting trends, certain designs manage to establish themselves as timeless staples. The New Balance 530 shoes have established themselves in the footwear and fashion industry, not just for their aesthetic appeal, but also their functional design and material composition. The New Balance 530s are composed of four main materials: leather, polyester, rubber, and EVA foam, each contributing to their overall performance and the company’s efforts in making footwear a more sustainable industry.
The main raw materials used in production of New Balance 530 shoes are leather, polyester, rubber, and Ethylene-Vinyl Acetate foam. Leather is a material sourced from animal skin, most commonly cattle hide. The lifecycle of leather begins from cows who are farmed and raised then slaughtered for their hide. In order to make leather, the cow hide has to undergo several complex chemical processes to become durable and usable for footwear. In the tanning stage of making leather, a variety of chemicals such as chromium (III) sulfate, calcium hydroxide, sodium sulfide, and numerous other agents are used to process the leather. After tanning, acids are neutralized using sodium bicarbonate or other neutralizing agents to adjust the pH level. At last, various synthetic dyes and pigments are used to color the leather while polyurethane coatings are applied to enhance the appearance and performance of the leather. The tanning process involves chromium salts, which can produce toxic byproducts that are harmful to workers and the environment by polluting water. New Balance is looking for more sustainable sources for leather such as gold-rated tanneries or chrome-free leather. On their website, they note, “...we call a material environmentally preferred based on its physical characteristics, like recycled, or based on its sustainable sourcing practices, like leather sourced from the Leather Working Group”.
Moving on, polyester is another commonly used material in the fashion industry. Polyester is a synthetic fiber made from petroleum. The production of polyester begins with the extraction of crude oil, which is then processed into various petrochemical products. In the process of producing polyester, crude oil is refined to produce ethylene and then polymerized to create polyethylene and terephthalate (PET). PET is then melted and placed through spinnerets to form fibers. Polyester fibers are dyed using dispersed dyes at high temperatures and pressures. It is important to note that drilling for oil releases great amounts of greenhouse gases as well as chemicals that pollute waters. In order to lessen the impact on the environment, New Balance uses recycled polyester spun from post-consumer plastic waste. They explain, “Recycled polyester can be made from recycling plastic waste into new fibers and yarns. Using it reduces our reliance on new fossil fuels, is less energy and water intensive than virgin polyester, and diverts plastic waste that would otherwise end up in landfill or the environment. Integrating recycled polyester into our products is a first step to eliminating our reliance on traditional synthetic fibers”. This approach reduces the reliance on petroleum, decreases energy and water usage, and minimizes plastic waste from landfills and oceans.
Rubber is also a major material used in the production of New Balance 530 shoes. Rubber that is used in the footwear industry can either be natural or synthetic. Like polyester, synthetic rubber is made from petrochemicals through polymerization of monomers such as butadiene and styrene. To vulcanize, synthetic rubber is mixed with sulfur to enhance elasticity and durability. Making synthetic rubber is an energy-intensive process and releases harmful chemicals into the environment that impacts air quality and human health. On the other hand, natural rubber is made from latex harvested from rubber trees. The latex is then treated with acids to coagulate into rubber. Natural rubber extracted from tapping rubber trees is less harmful as compared to synthetic rubber derived from petroleum. In an effort to cut wastes and environmental damage, New Balance is trying to use reprocessed rubber in the production of footwear.
Lastly, ethylene and vinyl acetate (EVA) foam is an extremely popular material, typically used as a shock absorber in sport shoes. Ethylene is derived from petroleum and when placed in the presence of a catalyst, it reacts with acetic acid to produce vinyl acetate. Ethylene and vinyl acetate are copolymerized under high pressure to form EVA. Different ratios of ethylene and vinyl acetate affect the foam’s flexibility, density, and resilience. The foaming process of EVA releases volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and carbon monoxide, posing risks to both workers and the environment. To combat the damages, New Balance is working to integrate more sustainable practices by using sugarcane-based foam compounds. On their website, they declare, “Over 20% of new footwear in our spring 2022 launch used reformulated EVA foams that replaced approximately 3% of typical content with a sugarcane-based foam compound sourced from crops that do not compete with local food production. Sugarcane is a renewable resource and integrating it into our footwear will help reduce our reliance on petroleum.”.
In addition to the primary materials used in the shoes' construction, various materials are also involved in the distribution and transportation stages of New Balance shoes. Transportation relies heavily on oils and fuels for trucks, ships, and planes to distribute products. Transportation aside, New Balance packaging primarily consists of plastic and paper. According to New Balance’s website, they want to “eliminate single use plastic and ensure responsible paper sourcing”. Their plastic packaging currently includes apparel polybags and plastic shipping mailers containing small apparel orders. The company is actively experimenting with plastic-free alternatives to determine the feasibility of eliminating all plastic packaging. Most of New Balance’s packaging is paper-based. They claim to “use millions of shoe boxes, sheets of tissue paper and master shipping cartons” each year. New Balance is currently prioritizing the reduction of paper usage and maximizing recycled content.
New Balance 530 shoes are designed to be durable and low-maintenance, making them a practical choice for consumers. For cleaning, the New Balance website recommends using water, a light bristle brush, and mild detergent to maintain the shoes' appearance and functionality. Regarding the end-of-life phase, New Balance emphasizes sustainability. It seems that no additional materials are required for the recycling of these shoes, simplifying the process and reducing waste. In terms of waste management, New Balance is actively working towards achieving zero waste to landfill. This commitment means that at the end of their lifecycle, New Balance 530 shoes will be managed in a way that minimizes environmental impact, aligning with the company's broader sustainability goals.
In an era driven by rapidly changing fashion trends, New Balance 530 shoes stand out as a timeless staple due to not only their aesthetic and functionality but also their commitment to sustainability. From leather, polyester, rubber to EVA foam, these shoes are constructed from materials that undergo complex chemical processes to ensure performance and durability. Understanding these processes and their implications is crucial for developing more sustainable practices in the footwear industry. New Balance's efforts to source more sustainable materials and improve production practices are steps in the right direction, contributing to a reduced environmental footprint and a more sustainable future for footwear production. With sustained dedication and continued effort, New Balance will become a model for environmental responsibility, setting a standard for innovation and leading the footwear industry toward more sustainable practices.
References
Laura. “A Detailed Check of the New Balance 530.” Sneakerjagers, 24 Nov. 2023, www.sneakerjagers.com/en/n/a-detailed-check-of-the-new-balance-530/64617.
New Balance Factory Tour | How Are New Balance Shoes Made?, www.popularmechanics.com/technology/design/a28789083/new-balance-sneakers-factory-tour/. Accessed 3 May 2024.
“Sites-NBSG-Site - New Balance.” New Balance Singapore, www.newbalance.com.sg/responsible-leadership/product.html?id=md#. Accessed 2 May 2024.
“Polyester.” CFDA, cfda.com/resources/materials/detail/polyester#:~:text=Most%20polyester%20is%20made%20out,can%20be%20produced%20in%20nature. Accessed 24 May 2024.
“Where Does Leather Come From?” MAHI Leather, MAHI Leather, 23 Mar. 2017, mahileather.com/blogs/news/where-does-leather-come-from. Mathews, Donovan. “Mesh Fabric - Everything You Need to Know.” Bryden Apparel, 21 July 2023, brydenapparel.com/mesh-fabric/.
“Product Care - Hidden Categories & Collections - New Balance.” New Balance United Kingdom, www.newbalance.co.uk/product-care/#. Accessed 24 May 2024.
“Product Sustainability - New Balance.” New Balance United Kingdom, www.newbalance.co.uk/product-sustainability.html. Accessed 24 May 2024.
Textile Exchange. “Polyester.” Textile Exchange, https://textileexchange.org/polyester/. Accessed 3 June 2024.
Hesperian Health Guides. “Making the Soles.” Hesperian Health Guides, https://en.hesperian.org/hhg/Workers%27_Guide_to_Health_and_Safety:Making_the_soles. Accessed 3 June 2024.
Haz-Map. “Tanning Chemicals Include Calcium Hydroxide, Sodium Sulfide, Sodium Hydrosulfide, and Ammonium Sulfate.” Haz-Map, https://haz-map.com/Processes/230#:~:text=Tanning%20chemicals%20include%20calcium%20hydroxide,aniline%2C%20nitrocellulose%2C%20and%20resins. Accessed 3 June 2024.
EVA Foam. “EVA Foam Production Process: A Comprehensive Guide to Manufacturing EVA Foam.” EVA Foam, https://evafoam.cc/eva-foam-production-process-a-comprehensive-guide-to-manufacturing-eva-foam/. Accessed 3 June 2024.
Catherine Tran
DES 40A
Christina Cogdell
May 30, 2024
Energy: New Balances 530s
More than just a logo, the large "N" on the New Balance 530s represents innovation along with environmental responsibility in the shoe business. Founded in 1906 and initially known for its “dad shoes”, New Balance has revolutionized the fashion industry with its creative designs, environmentally friendly manufacturing practices, and dedication to fine craftsmanship. Through a review of the energy processes that go into making the New Balance 530s, one can see how the company uses sustainable practices, efficient manufacturing techniques, and renewable energy to reduce its environmental effect while producing high-quality athletic shoes that are sold all over the world.
Before you find yourself wearing a fresh New Balance sneaker, the shoe goes through a lengthy and energy-intensive procedure to move from concept to consumer. The shoe's life cycle begins with an idea, which addresses both consumer and manufacturing issues. A balance of performance, comfort, and environmental effect is ensured throughout the first design phase through intensive research and development. After the design phase, the focus shifts to sourcing materials, with New Balance giving priority to eco-friendly materials including recycled and biodegradable alternatives. This stage demands a substantial amount of energy for extraction, processing, and transportation. Along with investments in renewable energy sources like solar and wind power, New Balance's production processes demonstrate their dedication to energy efficiency through the use of cutting-edge techniques like pre-made cookie cutter like molds and automation to cut waste and energy usage. To reduce its carbon footprint, the company continuously adopts energy-efficient technologies. Utilizing effective logistics networks to lower transportation emissions and eco-friendly packaging to decrease waste, the distribution and retail phase also integrates sustainable practices. When the sneakers are delivered to customers, they have been made with care and possess a smaller environmental impact.
The fashion industry in general, according to the World Bank, is responsible for 10% of global emissions. Operating in Maine, New Balance has reportedly pledged to be net zero by 2050, with goals of using 100% renewable electricity and reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 50% by 2030. In other words, the company has promised to eliminate harmful gasses into the air and plan to cut half of their gasses and use clean energy by 2030 and 2050. The lifecycle of a New Balance 530s sneaker starts with the extraction of raw materials. Key materials following rubber, leather, synthetic fabrics, and foam each require substantial energy in order to be processed.
The rubber found in the soles of the shoes is typically sourced from rubber trees in tropical regions and synthesized from petroleum-based chemicals. This involves a process of tapping, thickening, and transporting raw latex, heavily relying on the use of fossil fuels. Similarly, synthetic fabrics such as polyester are pulled from petrochemicals, requiring energy-intensive refining and polymerization processes (McLoughlin, RunRepeat). Crude oil must be refined, raw materials must be polymerized, and then spun into fibers in order to produce polyester, all of which need significant energy inputs. Just the refining process alone uses a lot of energy since it needs to be heated and compressed significantly in order to convert crude oil into components that may be used. Significant energy is also required for the ensuing polymerization and spinning operations, which frequently come from non-renewable sources.
A single shoe can emit about thirty pounds of carbon dioxide over its lifetime, according to MIT, indicating how much energy is used in these operations. The energy-intensive nature of these procedures and the substantial environmental damage connected to the creation of synthetic materials are highlighted by this image.
An additional major energy consumer is the manufacture of leather, particularly in chrome tanneries. Due to its effectiveness and high-quality end result, chromium tanning, which tans and preserves the animal hides using chromium sulfate, produces 80–90% of the leather used worldwide (Bousquet, MainePublic). Even though chrome tanning has advantages, it is bad for the environment since it releases dangerous pollutants and greenhouse gasses. In order to minimize this effect, New Balance sources their leather from Midwest cattle pastures that engage in regenerative agriculture, which enhances the sustainability and health of the soil (Muñoz, UPcommons). After the raw materials are thoroughly processed, they are moved to the manufacturing factories.
Utilizing solar and wind power in replacement to traditional energy sources, the factories work to reduce overall energy consumption. 3D printing and automation are two techniques that help to reduce waste and optimize energy consumption. During manufacturing, steps such as cutting, sewing, gluing, and finishing, call for particular machinery and energy inputs during the manufacture of New Balance 530s. The use of metal cutting dies, hydraulic presses, and automated stitching machines assures precision and efficiency, which reduces energy consumption and waste (Epplett, The Making of a New Balance Shoe). In addition to producing thousands of sneakers every day, New Balance works to reduce its carbon footprint, using energy-efficient procedures and equipment. Excess materials from these procedures are recycled and used again in subsequent production cycles. To motivate workers, they are incentivized to minimize waste, and the unused materials are sold or recycled.
New Balance's dedication to energy conservation is most evident throughout the production stage. Using 3D printing and automated technology, the company reduces waste and energy expenses while improving precision and cutting down on material waste in its manufacturing operations. By considerably reducing the energy needed for manufacturing, these technologies enable the effective production of shoe components. Furthermore, New Balance makes significant investments in renewable energy sources, such solar and wind power, to run its facilities. This helps to balance a sizable amount of the energy used in production.Furthermore, automated stitching machines lower the need for rework and save energy by using sensors to assure correct and quick production. By guaranteeing accurate cuts and making the most use of raw resources, the use of hydraulic presses and metal cutting dies reduces waste. These procedures lower the quantity of trash produced during manufacturing in addition to consuming less energy.
Reading into New Balance’s approach to sustainability, in my perspective, I found it very inspiring. Their strategy to switch solar and wind power in place of more conventional energy sources demonstrates their devotion to lessen their carbon footprint. I found it interesting that they chose to optimize energy consumption while minimizing waste through the usage of 3D printing and automation rather than traditional footwear manufacturing. I appreciated the take on how they fostered a sustainable culture within the company through providing incentives for employees to recycle leftover materials and reduce waste. With how things are run currently, I believe New Balance sets a strong example of how businesses could incorporate energy-saving practices and machinery to make a positive impact on the environment.
Following production, the sneakers are shipped from the factories into distribution centers and stores across the globe. This phase requires an elaborate logistical network that relies significantly on fossil fuels for transportation (Gottfridsson, Publications Library). To lessen the carbon impact of its logistics operations, New Balance uses energy-efficient trucks, consolidates shipments, and optimizes shipping routes. Transportation, however, continues to be a significant energy consumer due to the worldwide scope of the footwear market. Although effective logistics networks contribute to a decrease in transportation-related emissions, a considerable amount of energy is still used during this stage.
The final phase of the New Balance 530s' lifespan is consumer use and retail operations. Using renewable energy sources, smart thermostats, and LED lighting, retail establishments can lower their energy usage. By implementing renewable energy sources, smart thermostats, and LED lighting, New Balance encourages energy efficiency in its retail locations. The energy footprint of the sneakers continues after they have been purchased, as they are used and maintained. Addition of domestic energy to the total embodied energy of shoes comes from washing and drying them. This effect can be further lessened by promoting eco-friendly cleaning products and air drying as sustainable habits among customers. Sustainable use practices and customer education are crucial since a product's embodied energy persists throughout its use phase.
When a sneaker is purchased, its lifecycle is not over. There are serious environmental issues when it comes to shoe disposal. From one pair of shoes per year in 1950 to 2.6 pairs per year in 2005, the average global shoe consumption rose, resulting in an estimated 1.2 million tons of post-consumer shoe trash per year (Muñoz, UPcommons). The majority of this garbage is disposed of in landfills, where it releases dangerous chemicals. Through material reclamation and recycling, New Balance seeks to solve this problem. However, separation and recycling are not economically viable due to the complicated mixture of materials, which includes textiles, rubber, metals, polymers, and leather. Efforts are underway to develop more effective recycling systems and encourage consumers to reduce waste by purchasing fewer, higher-quality sneakers.
New Balance's commitment to sustainability and innovation is evident through the design and production of the 530 sneaker. Every stage of the process is planned to reduce energy use and environmental effect, starting with the raw material extraction and ending with the retail phase. Through the utilization of cutting-edge production methods, sustainable energy sources, and effective logistics, New Balance showcases its leadership in sustainable fashion. Nevertheless, there is a substantial amount of embodied energy involved in the process from concept to consumer, underscoring the significance of ongoing innovation and development in lowering the environmental impact of the footwear sector.
Bibliography
Bousquet, Carol. “New Balance Says Its Sneakers Will Leave Zero Carbon Footprint by 2050.” Wikipedia, 28 MARCH 2023, www.mainepublic.org/environment-and-outdoors/2022-04-12/carbon-footprint-new-balance-says-its-sneakers-will-have-net-zero-emissions-by-2050. Accessed 12 May 2024.
Epplett, Christine. “Chapter 8: The Making of a New Balance Shoe.” Engineering the Future: Science, Technology, and the Design Process, Key Curriculum Press, 2008, pp. 61-70, arabiamtnhs.dekalb.k12.ga.us/Downloads/chapter_8.pdf.
Fabrio Tatano. “Shoe manufacturing wastes: Characterisation of properties and recovery options.” ScienceDirect, 21 June 2012, www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S092134491200105X?casa_token=EvLadN-i4lIAAAAA:iVf7CWxbaoJyAu2TRTeC0ucjhN0lqf4Hl6PwLesMfHoQXbgEsySv-5KzvtzdEFossl7u33bs9w. Accessed 18 May 2024.
Gottfridsson, Marie, and Yuqing Zhang. “Environmental impacts of shoe consumption - Combining product flow analysis with an LCA model for Sweden.” Chalmers Publication Library, 2015, publications.lib.chalmers.se/records/fulltext/218968/218968.pdf Accessed 24 May 2024.
“How New Balance Reinvented Its Brand for the Future.” Complex Stories, stories.complex.com/new-balance-reinvention/. Accessed 16 May 2024.
“Is New Balance a Sustainable and Ethical Shoe Brand?” Wikipedia, 26 Oct 2023, thegoodshoppingguide.com/brand-directory/new-balance/. Accessed 16 May 2024.
Keefe, Ben. “New Balance: Brand History, Philosophy, and Iconic Products.” Heddels, 29 July 2019, www.heddels.com/2019/07/new-balance-brand-history-philosophy-iconic-products/. Accessed 19 May 2024.
Laura. “A detailed check of the New Balance 530.” Sneakerjagers, 30 June 2023, www.sneakerjagers.com/en/n/a-detailed-check-of-the-new-balance-530/64617. Accessed 16 May 2024.
McLoughlin, Danny. “All Eco Sneakers Do Is Kill The Planet a Little Bit Slower [Study].” RunRepeat, 1 March 2024, runrepeat.com/eco-sneakers-research. Accessed 16 May 2024.
Muñoz, Zayetzi Rivera. “Water, energy and carbon footprints of a pair of leather shoes.” UPcommons, UPcommons.upc.edu/bitstream/handle/2099.1/19862/Rivera%20Munoz-%20Zayetzi.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y. Accessed 29 May 2024.
Newcomb, Tim. “New Balance Factory Tour | How Are New Balance Shoes Made?” Popular Mechanics, 23 August 2019, www.popularmechanics.com/technology/design/a28789083/new-balance-sneakers-factory-tour/. Accessed 16 May 2024.
Nurit, Even-Tzur. “Role of EVA viscoelastic properties in the protective performance of a sport shoe: Computational studies.” IOS Press Content Library, IOS Press, 1 January 2006, content.iospress.com/articles/bio-medical-materials-and-engineering/bme429. Accessed 24 May 2024.
Rensburg, Melissa L. “Life cycle and End-of-Life management options in the footwear industry: A review.” SageJournals, 17 March 2020, journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/0734242X20908938?casa_token=CJuGHBVuAk0AAAAA%3AUJ6euaNMnl38qevq2dw8f18Zuyrqa5rXsHkiFbMcmQMYmPTSnFkt_E9fRYUwY1-vIYQ5SAAcFqDQ. Accessed 24 May 2024.
Rosa, Vanessa B. “Evaluation of different mechanical recycling methods of EVA foam waste.” Sage Journals, 8 January 2022, journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/0095244321990400. Accessed 16 May 2024.
Ross, Charlie Bradley. “What's The Deal With Recycled Polyester?” The Sustainable Fashion Collective, 29 January 2015, www.the-sustainable-fashion-collective.com/2015/01/29/what-is-recycled-polyester/. Accessed 16 May 2024.
Rossi, Marta. “Life cycle assessment of a leather shoe supply chain.” Taylor & Francis Online, 27 April 2021, www.tandfonline.com/doi/citedby/10.1080/19397038.2021.1920643?scroll=top&needAccess=true. Accessed 21 May 2024.
Silva, Ferreira da. “Environmental performance of leather and leather-like materials applied to footwear.” NTNU Open, 2023, ntnuopen.ntnu.no/ntnu-xmlui/handle/11250/3087821. Accessed 26 May 2024.
So, Adrienne. “New Balance's Latest Shoes Come With 3D-Printed Soles.” WIRED, 28 June 2019, www.wired.com/story/new-balance-triplecell-3d-printed-shoe/. Accessed 29 May 2024.
Thanikaivelan, Palanisamy, et al. “Recent Trends in Leather Making: Processes, Problems, and Pathways.” Critical Reviews in Environmental Science and Technology, vol. 35, no. 1, 2007. Taylor & Francis Online, www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/10643380590521436.
Verdejo, R., and NJ Mills. “Heel–shoe interactions and the durability of EVA foam running-shoe midsoles.” ScienceDirect, 7 Feb 2004, www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0021929003004858. Accessed 16 May 2024.
Verdejo, Raquel. “Performance of EVA foam in running shoes.” ResearchGate, July 2002, www.researchgate.net/publication/225030841_Performance_of_EVA_foam_in_running_shoes. Accessed 14 May 2024.
Alexandra Borillo
DES 40A
Professor Cogdell
6/5/2024
Waste and Emissions from New Balance 530s
The 530s became a staple in New Balance’s collection of shoes as a throwback to one of their classic running shoes. It is mainly used for casual styling and all-day comfort. As New Balance has been a long-standing sneaker company for many years, they acknowledge how the shoe industry is extremely harmful to the environment. The manufacturing process of sneakers involves many processes that contribute heavily to waste and emissions. To counter this, New Balance has made many changes to its manufacturing, becoming more sustainable. This paper aims to explore the waste and emissions produced when creating the 530s sneakers and looks closely at how New Balance attempts to reduce its carbon footprint and increase its sustainability.
When extracting the raw materials for the 530s, many toxic byproducts are emitted. The shoe is mainly made up of polyester, EVA foam, rubber, and leather. First, polyester is a synthetic fiber made from petroleum or crude oil, but it can also be made from recycled plastic. The extraction of petroleum or crude oil contributes large amounts of greenhouse gases (GHGs) to our atmosphere. It mainly releases carbon emissions and methane which has a warming potential more than 25 times that of CO2 (GHGRP).
Second, EVA foam is used for the midsoles and outsoles of the sneaker, so a large amount of it is necessary for production. EVA (ethylene-vinyl acetate) foam mainly consists of ethylene, a hydrocarbon gas obtained from petrochemicals like crude oil, and vinyl acetate, from acetic acid or petrochemicals. So similarly to polyester, EVA foam derives from crude oils and emits carbon emissions and methane gases into the atmosphere (GHGRP) when being extracted.
Third, rubber is either obtained from natural trees or manufacturing synthetic rubber. Gathering rubber from natural trees can cause deforestation and biodiversity loss. Whereas synthetic rubber is made from petrochemicals like hydrocarbons or natural gas. Which again emits lots of GHGs into our atmosphere just like polyester and EVA foam.
Lastly, we have leather which New Balance sources from Leather Working Group gold-rated or chrome-free (New Balance, Sustainability and Impact Report). As the leather is from animal hides, mainly from cattle, raising cattle for leather adds tons of methane into our atmosphere whenever the cattle release gas from their bodies (Navarro, Leather production). Overall petroleum and crude oil seem to be the main raw materials used to produce our secondary raw materials. While extracting petroleum and crude oils does produce a lot of emissions, there are still many emissions to be found when manufacturing these materials.
First looking at the manufacturing process of polyester, the first thing found is that its production requires high levels of heat in combination with many chemicals and dyes. To make synthetic polyester, polymerization occurs. In this process, the compounds are heated and dried numerous times to produce synthetic fiber (Bhawsar, Toxic Fibers and Fabrics). When this is heated nitrous oxide, methane, and carbon dioxide are emitted. Nitrous oxide is 310 times more efficient at trapping heat than carbon dioxide. Once the synthetic fiber is produced, it is washed or dyed thoroughly then whatever is in the water is dumped into streams or rivers (Bar, Life Cycle Assessment on Textiles and Clothing). New Balance is aware that polyester is one of their main drivers of climate impact, so they are working to use only recycled polyester from now on (New Balance, Sustainability and Impact Report).
Second, when manufacturing EVA foam there are not many byproducts produced however, what makes up EVA foam does raise some concerns. Within EVA foam there are vinyl acetate monomers (VAMs), which are considered to be a volatile organic compound (VOC) (Junior, EVA for footwear). If inhaled it can be harmful, but New Balance makes sure to reduce the amount of VAMs used (New Balance, Sustainability and Impact Report). The other concern is in the foaming agents used. During the processing of these agents, some release VOCs or formaldehyde. Within the factory, these are controlled with proper ventilation to minimize the environmental impact as well as ensure safety for the workers (Bianchi, EVA foam for footwear).
Next, the manufacturing process of synthetic rubber has many similarities to the production of polyester. They both require high temperatures and many chemicals are added to them. The main emissions when manufacturing synthetic rubber are VOCs, particulate matter (PM), nitrogen oxides, and sulfur dioxide (Kullapa, Synthetic Rubber). When handling the rubber the workers need proper PPE to ensure they are not inhaling any of these emissions (Kullapa, Synthetic Rubber). All four of these are bad pollutants for the air, so New Balance has great ventilation systems (New Balance, Sustainability and Impact Report), as well as combustion control technology to reduce nitrogen oxide emissions, and sulfur recovery units to reduce the sulfur dioxide emissions.
Lastly, the production of leather is usually a process that produces many harmful chemicals that are released into the environment. However, New Balance is aware of this and obtains their leather from gold-rated or chrome-free tanneries (New Balance, Sustainability and Impact Report). Usually, in leather production, chromium is used to tan the leather and is highly toxic, this is often released into our waters (Navarro, Leather production). New Balance acknowledges this and wants to reduce the use of chromium in their leather as well as working towards switching to preferred leather (New Balance, Sustainability and Impact Report). This significantly reduces the amount of waste produced, however, there are still many chemicals thrown out into its wastewater. They mainly consist of VOCs and sulfur emissions, thereby contributing to air pollution (Rossi, Life cycle assessment of leather). It also includes solid waste from trimming of the leather and sludge coming from the tanning process. These are either recycled or transported elsewhere to prevent environmental contamination (Navarro, Leather production). Once this manufacturing process is complete for all the materials, New Balance moves onto the distribution and transportation process so they may assemble their sneaker or move their waste elsewhere.
The distribution and transportation process is heavily dependent on fossil fuels for transportation. According to the New Balance Sustainability Report and the CDP, it was reported that a total of 233,409 metric tons of global carbon emissions were generated from transportation in their Scope 3 report. New Balance wants to reduce its carbon footprint by decreasing the distance between factories and distribution centers. To do so they want to begin sourcing their materials locally, like in the US, and reduce the amount of materials needed from distant countries (New Balance, Sustainability and Impact Report). New Balance also uses energy-efficient trucks and optimal shipping routes to cut down on distance.
During the research process, I could not find any sources specifically saying New Balance off gases any of their emissions. However given the fact during manufacturing many VOCs and carbon and methane emissions are produced, I believe that one could assume they do so. However, that is not entirely reliable as there was no source found to support it. Although not to be discouraged, New Balance has a very thorough recycling process that I believe offsets their potential off-gassing.
As New Balance is working hard to reduce their carbon footprint and increase their sustainability, recycling is their primary solution to do so. They know polyester is their main contributor to their climate impact so moving forward all the polyester they are using is preferred polyester (New Balance, Responsibly Made). Which essentially is just recycled polyester from the materials they prefer. During the recycling process though many carbon emissions are produced. EVA foam and rubber can be recycled. But not at first, at least for EVA foam. The waste created from EVA foam was difficult to recycle because of its complex makeup of materials. Initially, most of it went straight to landfill. Luckily New Balance found a way to reduce the amount of waste when making EVA Foam, along with finding out a method to recycle it and turn it into other outsoles or midsoles for other shoes (New Balance, Sustainability and Impact Report). For EVA foam and rubber to recycle, they take cured rubber waste and EVA waste from Tier 1 and Tier 2 Factories, grind it down and use it as a material for midsoles and outsoles in their shoes. Lastly, for leather, it is not really recyclable. So New Balance’s goal is to source 100% preferred leather by 2025 (New Balance, Sustainability and Impact Report). This is both chrome-free and sourced from leather-working groups that mitigate their climate impacts. These efforts are commendable and they seem to be moving in a positive green direction. Although despite these efforts to recycle more, one cannot ignore the amount of waste still produced.
In 2023, New Balance generated waste a total of 3,724 metric tons of global carbon emissions. This is quite a bit of waste, but to help combat this the U.S. New Balance factories diverted 87% of waste from landfill by recycling and waste-to-energy. Now let us take a look at what happens to the New Balance 530s as it goes to landfill. First, the main material, polyester, whatever is not used to recycle is put into landfill. As a plastic made from petroleum, it is not biodegradable. It can take about twenty to two hundred years in a landfill (Bar, Life Cycle Assessment on Textiles and Clothing). EVA foam is also not biodegradable and can take thousands of years to decompose (Junior, EVA foam for footwear). Rubber is not biodegradable and takes fifty to eighty years to decompose (Kullapa, Synthetic Rubber). Lastly leather is only biodegradable if it is not processed. However, for shoe making, it is heavily processed. It can take about twenty-five to forty years to decompose in a landfill (Rossi, Life cycle assessment of Leather). Of all the materials, leather produces the most waste because of its difficulty to recycle and reuse. Once these all finally start to break down it emits VOCs, sulfur dioxide, microplastics, and more into the environment.
After researching New Balance’s environmental practices and work towards sustainability, I can confidently say they are doing a good job, but I question if it will be enough in the long run. New Balance’s recycling program, production of synthetic materials, and use of smart transportation are great steps in becoming more green and reducing their carbon footprint. However, my main concern is the use of synthetic materials as those rely heavily on fossil fuels. But overall I could see that New Balance is truly working hard towards combating their carbon footprint. I can only hope that other fashion companies and industries will be inspired to do the same.
Bibliography
Bär, M., Vandepaer, L., Shah, V., Pfister, S. “Performing Life Cycle Assessment at Scale in the
Footwear Industry. In: Muthu, S.S. (eds) Progress on Life Cycle Assessment in Textiles and Clothing.” Textile Science and Clothing Technology. 27 Feb. 2023, https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-19-9634-4_9
Bianchi, I., Forcellese, A., Simoncini, M., et al. “Mechanical characterization and sustainability
assessment of recycled EVA for footwears.” Int J Adv Manuf Technol 126, 3149–3160, 29 March 2023, https://doi.org/10.1007/s00170-023-11332-1
CDP, https://www.cdp.net/en/formatted_responses/responses?campaign_id=83630982&
“GHGRP and the Oil and Gas Industry” EPA, https://www.epa.gov/ghgreporting/ghgrp-
and-oil-and-gas-industry#:~:text=The%20oil%20and%20gas%20industry%20is%20the%20largest%20industrial%20source,current%20warming%20from%20human%20activities Accessed 1 June 2024.
Hunt, Joshua. “Inside New Balance’s Plans to Topple the Global Sneaker Hierarchy.” GQ, 27
Feb. 2023, https://www.gq.com/story/new-balance Accessed 1 May 2024.
Junior, Cristiano, Peruchi, R., Fim, F., Soares, W., Silva, L., “Performance of ethylene vinyl
acetate waste (EVA-w) when incorporated into expanded EVA foam for footwear.” Science Direct, 1 Oct. 2021, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2021.128352
Kullapa, Soratana, Daina, R., Habib, A., Pragnya L. E., Amy E. L., “Guayule as an alternative
source of natural rubber: A comparative life cycle assessment with Hevea and synthetic rubber.”Journal of Cleaner Production https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.05.070.
McLoughlin, Danny. “New Balance 530 Review.” RunRepeat, 8 Dec. 2023,
https://runrepeat.com/new-balance-530
Navarro, D., Wu, J., Lin, W. et al. “Life cycle assessment and leather production.” J Leather Sci
Eng 2, 9 Nov. 2020, https://doi.org/10.1186/s42825-020-00035-y
Parisi, Danny. “New Balance Debuts Brand-Owned Resale Channel.” Glossy, 5 Feb. 2024,
https://www.glossy.co/fashion/new-balance-launches-brand-owned-resale-channel/
“Responsibly Made.” New Balance United States of America,
https://www.newbalance.com/responsibly-made.html Accessed 1 May 2024.
Rossi, M., Papetti, A., Marconi, M., & Germani, M. “Life cycle assessment of a leather shoe
supply chain.” International Journal of Sustainable Engineering, 27 Apr 2021, https://doi.org/10.1080/19397038.2021.1920643
“Sustainability and Impact Report 2022” New Balance United States of America,
https://www.newbalance.com/on/demandware.static/-/Library-Sites-NBUS-NBCA/default/dw87610e36/pdf/New_Balance_Sustainability_and_Impact_Report_2022.pdf Accessed 1 May 2024.
“The History of the New Balance 530” Shoe Palace, 10 Jan. 2024,
https://www.shoepalace.com/blogs/all/the-history-of-the-new-balance-530
Towa, Oceane. “Sustainability In The Sneakers Industry.” FGV SB, 15 Jan. 2021,
https://repositorio.fgv.br/server/api/core/bitstreams/aa32b411-1311-4c1e-8560-205854eebdf7/content