Design Life-Cycle
assess.design.(don't)consume
Cuauhtemoc Ramirez
Sophia A. Yolanda F.
DES40A
Professor Cogdell
Piñatex Lifecycle Essay Outline: Embodied Energy
Piñatex is a non-woven textile developed by Dr.Carmen Hijosa. This material functions as a leather alternative and it is made from refined pineapples leaves, the fibers of which are very strong. The energy put into the product is meant to be as fully utilized as possible and if not utilized returned in some form. In this essay I will outline how energy moves through the lifecycle of Piñatex in their practice of utilizing dead pineapple leaves as the sole raw material. By making use of the waste produced during the manufacturing process and designing the product to be durable and easily reused. However, there are some drawbacks in energy efficiency from their methods of transportation and means of powering some refinement machinery.
The acquisition of raw materials requires no additional energy other than what is already needed for pineapple agriculture. Piñatex of dead pineapple leaves, a byproduct of pineapple farming. Moreover, Piñatex sources the leaves from a company titled Ananas Anam. This company was founded by the creator of Piñatex and promotes having low environmental impact and simultaneous positively social impacts. Hijosa States this in her thesis,“ Through its business and products, Ananas Anam is committed to promoting a more sustainable lifestyle, improving the usage of nature-based resources and creating a positive impact on communities,”(Hijosa 166). They do this by working with rural farming cooperatives in the Philippines, a country where pineapple plantations make up nearly 10% of all agriculture. This gives these communities another source of income. Not only that but because these are small farming cooperatives, they utilize lower impact farming practices than commercial farms. The embodied energy at this stage includes the energy used by humans to harvest the pineapples. Given the fact that these are rural farming co-ops, they likely utilize less energy to carry out farming from fossil fuels in order to harvest. During cultivation the embodied energy includes chemical energy synthesized by the plant from the sun during the process of photosynthesis as well as from the nutrients in the soil. A portion of this chemical energy in the soil is sourced from more waste created later in the manufacturing process.
The waste from the manufacturing process provides energy to the cultivation of the pineapple leaf fibers. After collection, the pineapple leaves are put through the process of decortication. The decorticating machine refines the leaves into the fibrous state for further refinement into the product. At this stage, energy from fossil fuels are used to power the decorticating machines as well as energy from humans who run the machines. Along with the pineapple fibers come some biomass from the machines essentially the rest of the organic material of the leave. The farmers can use this biomass as nutrient rich fertilizer that will provide energy to the pineapple harvest. This is a very renewable and sustainable practice. The fibers are sun dried, utilizing renewable solar energy. It then undergoes a process of degumming and industrial refinement into the finished non-woven material. The energy driving this process also comes from fossil fuels as they are used to power the machinery that finishes the product. Fossil fuels are also for the finishing process as Piñatex has stated they use petroleum based resins. Humans operate the machinery and run the product through this process. These practices reflect traditional patterns of embodied energy in the production of a synthetic material but there is a different environmental result for Piñatex.
Typically people have turned to nonrenewable energy sources as a means of producing synthetic alternative materials. Piñatex is marketed as a product that can be an alternative, and it seeks to offset the consumption of leather. As stated in lecture, natural rubber eventually became scarce as demand for the product grew. People found success with synthetic rubbers however this product utilized petroleum in both refinement and as a material a very non renewable and non sustainable energy source. Synthetic dyes are also known to be highly impactful on the environment, contaminating water systems. Piñatex seems to play into this to some degree as it must use non-renewable fossil fuels to power the manufacturing machines. However, the resulting product is still geared towards renewable energy. The fact that these small farms operate these machines means they utilize much less energy from fossil fuels than a commercial production would. In addition, the fossil fuels used are offset by the other instances in which sustainable practices work in combination with renewable energy. Besides the matter of energy used to manufacture Piñatex, the matter of transport shows a slight cause for concern as well.
As for transportation, Piñatex is transported to consumers via standard shipping methods. This is through air, water , and land transport and facilitated by standard shipping companies Pinatex moves their product through UPS. These methods have been known to be strenuous to the environment as they require fossil fuels to fuel the transportation of products. It is estimated by the International Maritime Organization that nearly 2.2% of global man- made emissions. They also expect the number to rapidly increase as consumer demand continues to grow. Cargo ships use about 250 tons of fuel per day, and large planes are estimated to consume around a gallon of fuel every second although some of the plane companies report otherwise. This seems to be where Piñatex is lacking in energy efficiency however, companies have the option of less energy intensive shipping methods through UPS. There is the option for UPS customers to use recycled material for packaging, but I was unable to get in contact with Piñatex to determine if they opt for less energy intensive transport. It is then carried to be used by the consumers. The use of this product is integrated in many industrial applications.
Piñatex consumers are mostly designers and thus have energy embodied from design machinery for use. The non woven textile is durable and is used in a multitude of design fields ranging from fashion to automotive upholstery. The embodied energy in this stage of use is low as the textile is distributed directly from Ananas Anam. The only energy required to use it would include the electricity needed to power things such the sewing machines used to create garments and upholstery. Given that the target market of this product consists of professional designers, industrial level sewing machines are a tool used by many Piñatex buyers. Especially with it finding use in ready-to-wear garments by large fashion labels like Hugo Boss. Industrial sewing machines use around 180 Watts of electricity. If you assume that sewing machine is in use for 5 hours a day for five days a week, over the course of a month that would be 100 hours each month of use. This equates to around 16 Kilowatt-hours of electricity per month. According to a greenhouse gas statistic calculator created by the Environmental Protection Agency, this is equivalent to the energy of 12.4lbs of coal burned, and 24.9lbs of greenhouse gas emission. While Piñatex has supplied big design labels, smaller scale professional designers make up a strong portion of their consumer base. For these smaller practices, this rate of consumption may be fairly sustainable with low environmental impact but for large scale design productions this energy consumption would be much more impactful. That’s is where the low energy waste of Piñatex makes the difference. The quality of Piñatex reinforces this difference.
Piñatex is incredibly durable. In her research on pineapple leaf fibers(PALF) Dr.Hijosa notes, “The cellulose content of PALF is higher than that of acaba and banana fibers[...]. The higher percent of cellulose content confers on PALF a good tensile strength. It is due to this tensile strength that PALF fibers have already been used to reinforce polymers in composites and show its potential in making a nonwoven substrate,”(128, Hijosa). The material is strong and durable and this affects how the Piñatex life cycle ends. Once it has reached consumers in products they buy, essentially no energy is required to recycle it. Piñatex is long lasting and thus energy wasted during the process is less impactful. However, when eventually Piñatex will make it to landfills. The unfinished Piñatex substrate is biodegradable however the material is coated with petroleum-based resin during the finishing process rendering Piñatex. The embodied energy in the stage of disposal comes partly from the transport to the landfill, and partly from burning the product. Transport uses energy from fossil fuels while a burning 2200 tons of waste per day equates to around 1200MWh of electrical energy. Piñatex has stated they are in the midst of creating a bio-based coating allowing for biodegradation.
In conclusion, making use of waste to continue the process of manufacture and creating a long lasting material Piñatex tries to be as energy efficient as possible in order to provide an alternative and sustainable non woven material. Some stages of the process such as manufacturing process use nonrenewable and unsustainable energy sources mainly fossil fuels. The overall process of Piñatex still has made a mark in its sustainable practice that promotes positive environmental and social impact.
Bibliography: Piñatex
Davis S. Rachel. “Quality Fabric if the Month: From Fruit to Fabric” Textile worlds. Web. Sep/Oct, 2018.
Di Ciancia, Cinthia. “The Textile of the Future: Piñatex” Welum. Web. Nov. 28th, 2017.
Henrietta. “These Brands are Making Stunning Vegan Fashion Pieces from Pineapple Leaves(Piñatex)”. Future King and Queen. Web.
Hijosa, Carmen. Piñatex, the design development of a new sustainable material. Diss. Royal College of Art, 2015
“How it's Made: How Piñatex Turns Pineapples into a Sustainable Leather Alternative.” HFS Collective. Web. Oct. 4th, 2017
Olivo Tara. “Making Nonwovens from Pineapples”. Nonwovens. Web. February, 10, 2015
“Piñatex.” Piñatex, 2017, Web.
Ramchandani M., Coste-Maniere I. Eco-conspicuous Versus Eco-conscious Consumption: Co-creating a New Definition of Luxury and Fashion. In: Muthu S. (eds) Models for Sustainable Framework in Luxury Fashion. Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Springer, Singapore 2018. Web
SadashivTodkara, Santosh, and Suresh AbasahebPatilb. “Review on Mechanical Properties Evaluation of Pineapple Leaf Fibre (PALF) Reinforced Polymer Composites.” Composites Part B: Engineering, Elsevier, 28 May 2019,
"This Gorgeous, Sustainable “Leather” Is Made From Pineapple Waste." Fast Company. N.p., 2019. Web. 18 Oct. 2019.
Storgaard, Maria. “How Much Electricity (Amps, Volts & Watts) Does a Sewing Machine Use?”. Sewing Machine Talk.Web. 29 October 2018
“Greenhouse Gas Equivalencies Calculator.” EPA, Environmental Protection Agency, 15 Oct. 2018.
“Fuel Consumption by Containership Size and Speed.” The Geography of Transport Systems, 1 Aug. 2019.
Sophia Agoston
Group: Yolanda F., Cuauhtemoc R.
DES 40A
Professor Cogdell
Piñatex Life Cycle Paper: Waste and Emissions
Piñatex is a textile material created by Carmen Hijosa, who set out to create a sustainable alternative to leather. Conventional manufacturing processes of animal leather are not sustainable for our environment due to the large use of resources, animal industry, and the toxic chemicals used to create leather. Piñatex is manufactured without animal products, uses sustainable raw materials, and produces very little waste. Piñatex is made of pineapple cellulose fibers, and the final product has a similar look and feel to animal leather (without the strain on our environment). Carmen Hijosa owns the company Ananas Anam which manufactures Piñatex. In this paper, I will be talking about the waste and emissions created by the Piñatex pineapple leaf fiber textile. Fortunately, Piñatex production is inspired by the “cradle to cradle” approach, which greatly limits waste during production. The raw material of Piñatex is a byproduct of the pineapple farming industry. Waste from steps of the production process is reused as fertilizer. Piñatex is a very low waste product that is sustainable for the environment and creates jobs for the Philippine farming community.
I will begin by assessing the wastes created during the acquisition of raw materials in the life cycle of Piñatex. The raw materials for Piñatex are gathered in the Philippines because there is a prominent farming industry there. Pineapples are widely grown in the Philippines, and pineapple leaves are a byproduct left over in mass quantities of this industry. Ananas Anam is making a sustainable choice by using this byproduct because the pineapple farming industry creates 40,000 tons of waste which are pineapple leaves left to rot or be burned. Piñatex is made solely out of these pineapple leaves. The next stage of creating this pineapple fiber is to process the leaves.
Once the pineapple leaves have been gathered in the Philippines, the next stage is to extract the fibers from these leaves. This process is called decortication. Decortication is also done in the Philippines. It is important to note that Ananas Anam gives jobs to people in the farming community to help create Piñatex. Decortication is done by these farmers, by use of a decortication machine. One struggle of this research project was finding information on the decortication machine. I set out to find the wastes created in the manufacturing of one of these machines, but unfortunately could not find the proper information with my research. However, what I do know is that a decortication machine is made of metal and metal blades. It is also run using some kind of engine and fuel source. Acquisition of these metals and fuel could create waste. This is especially true if the oil is taken from the Earth and is non-renewable. I was not able to find conclusive information regarding the decortication machines which are used in the manufacturing process of Piñatex. Decortication machines are not only used for Piñatex, they are also used for processing coconut husks and other fibrous materials. When pineapple leaves are put through the decortication machine, a waste called biomass. This biomass is then taken and turned from waste into “biofuel” because it is put back into the lifecycle and used as ground fertilizer for the Dole pineapple company. The next step is washing the fiber.
The next stage is to take the separated fibers from the decorticating process and wash it. This washing process is sustainable because it is washed in running streams. No additional water is gathered and taken elsewhere, the stream is the only source of washing. Also, no toxic chemicals are released into the stream since the fiber has not been altered chemically. In contrast to the animal leather industry, water is not wasted in the creation of Piñatex pineapple leather. After the washing process, the fibers are dried in the sun. Because Ananas Anam uses the sunlight for drying the fibers, no additional resources are needed and no additional wastes are created. The next step in the manufacturing process is degumming, which removes pectin to make the fiber soft and pliable. There is no additional waste during the degumming process. The following step is an industrial process which physically processes the fibers to form it into a non-woven textile. In this stage, the base of Piñatex is complete. In this non-woven form it is completely biodegradable. Piñatex is then coated and finished to look like a colorful leather by using nontoxic processes. Unfortunately, the coated textile is not biodegradable.
Piñatex is coated using a petroleum based resin which is nontoxic. The finishing process is not very researchable because Piñatex has not released specific details of the coating processes. However, we know that it is nontoxic, yet not biodegradable. As noted on the Piñatex website, the coating follows AFIRM standards. AFIRM standards restrict harmful chemicals in the manufacturing of apparel. It is important to note that Piñatex wants to use biodegradable resins in the future.
Piñatex is sold to apparel designers such as Hugo Boss, Bourgeois Boheme, Maniwala, and many others. These designers create many varieties of apparel such as designer dresses, shoes, boots, purses, and even furnishings. The material is very versatile because of the color range options that Ananas Anam offers. It is up to the designer as to how they will manipulate the fabric and what they will create. It is up to the consumer to choose how to recycle that designer product. If a customer buys a pair of Piñatex shoes created by a designer who purchased the fabric, they may wear these shoes for years and then not want them anymore. Just like people recycle or donate any other clothes they have, Piñatex products can be donated so that its life cycle continues. However, if someone chooses to throw away their Piñatex product, then it will end up in a landfill with the rest of their trash. Landfills create huge amounts of waste because the things dumped in landfills mostly are not biodegradable. If Piñatex products end up in landfills then they will not biodegrade. Only the nonwoven pineapple fiber is biodegradable.
Overall, Piñatex is a very environmentally friendly and sustainable product. The entire manufacturing process limits waste and focuses on a circular lifecycle. However, just like any products to be sold, they have to be transported worldwide. This transportation is done by UPS. It is unclear whether they use UPS cargo ships or jet planes. Because of this, I will talk about the environmental impact of both options. Unfortunately, using jet planes in any circumstance does not benefit the environment. When Jet fuel is burned it created carbon emission that go into the atmosphere. These emissions are known as greenhouse gases because they prevent heat from escaping the atmosphere. This leads to global warming. If we assume that Piñatex is shipped by cargo ships on the ocean, we can evaluate those emissions as well. Ship engines also burn fuel that release greenhouse gases. In addition to this, ships can use ballast water to keep the boat stable. These ballast water emissions are harmful to the oceans because they can contain some harmful biological materials such as marine viruses.
As I previously noted, Piñatex’s main source of waste and emissions come from the transportation phase of production. This means that while Piñatex is a sustainable and eco-friendly product, shipping is still a way that greenhouse gasses are created. When focusing on the production of the pineapple fabric itself, it is an amazing replacement for animal leather. It uses no addition raw materials for the creation of the non-woven textile. It is created using pineapple leaves which are previous wastes from the agriculture industry in the Philippines. No additional water is acquired, the fiber is simply washed in a running stream. Piñatex is not biodegradable but they aim to be in the future. Also, any designer who uses Piñatex may or may not create an environmentally friendly product with it, which is important to recognize. Overall, Piñatex is innovative and sustainable. They also create jobs for farming workers in rural Philippine communities. Piñatex has the look and feel of a conventional leather, without the harm and waste.
Bibliography
Di Ciancia, Cinthia. “The Textile of the Future: Piñatex” Welum. Web. Nov. 28th, 2017.
Hijosa, Carmen. Piñatex, the design development of a new sustainable material. Diss. Royal College of Art, 2015.
“Home - Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute.” Home - Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute.
“How it's Made: How Piñatex Turns Pineapples into a Sustainable Leather Alternative.” HFS Collective. Web. Oct. 4th, 2017
.
Ly, Vicki. “Vegan Leather: Piñatex aka Pineapple Leather”. Ethical Elephant. May 16th, 2019.
“Piñatex.” Piñatex, 2017,
Ramchandani M., Coste-Maniere I. Eco-conspicuous Versus Eco-conscious Consumption: Co-creating a New Definition of Luxury and Fashion. In: Muthu S. (eds) Models for Sustainable Framework in Luxury Fashion. Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Springer, Singapore 2018. Web.
SadashivTodkara, Santosh, and Suresh Abasaheb Patilb. “Review on Mechanical Properties Evaluation of Pineapple Leaf Fibre (PALF) Reinforced Polymer Composites.” Composites Part B: Engineering, Elsevier, 28 May 2019,
Stephens, Penny. “Pinatex. Luxury Items from Pineapple Waste”. Goodsmiths. Jan. 31st, 2019.
"This Gorgeous, Sustainable “Leather” Is Made from Pineapple Waste." Fast Company. N.p., 2019. Web. 18 Oct. 2019.
Zohuriaan-Mehr, M. J., and H. Omidian. "Petroleum resins: an overview." Journal of Macromolecular Science, Part C: Polymer Reviews 40.1 (2000): 23-49.
Yolanda Fu
DES 40A A03
Professor Cogdell
TA Jude Mooney
Group member: Sophia A., Cuauhtemoc R.
Topic: Piñatex – Material
December 4, 2019
Piñatex – Materials
The Piñatex fabric becomes increasingly popular for the past few years under the slogan of low environmental footprint and high social impact. Piñatex as a natural non-woven textile and an alternative leather is made from the fibers that are extracted from pineapple leaves and undergo an industrial process called decortication. Firstly, the raw material of Piñatex is a byproduct of the pineapple farming industry mainly in the Philippines. Secondly, the decortication of Piñatex, the manufacturing process of the Piñatex fabric is almost perfectly sustainable, which is inspired by the “Cradle to Cradle” approach where all aspects of the life cycle of the Piñatex fabric are supposed to be environmentally efficient. Finally, after the decortication, the waste from the production process will be reinvented as biomass and reused as fertilizer. This paper seeks to examine the Piñatex fabric throughout the full life cycle focusing on its raw material acquisition, manufacturing process, and reuse maintenance after production.
Basically speaking, Piñatex comes from pineapple leaves. The raw material of Piñatex is a byproduct of the pineapple farming industry, which currently mostly existing in the Philippines. Traditionally in the past, people usually choose to throw away or burn the pineapple leaves. However, the arrival of the Piñatex industry in the pineapple growing countries offers a more sustainable and greener solution to the huge amount of pineapple leaves waste, which is directly transforming the pineapple leaves waste into utilizing it. According to Cinthia Di Ciancia from one of the Piñatex pioneering company Ananas Anam,
the whole processing of pineapple leaves starts with the extraction of cellulose fibers from the leaves, which is called decortication. Decortication is completed by the farming community in the pineapple growing countries that are mainly the Philippines. This is the beginning of the manufacturing process and will be explained more specifically in the next following paragraph.
Regarding Piñatex’s features as a textile material, it is considered as a “strong, breathable, soft, lightweight, water-resistant, durable, and flexible” textile. As a consequence, the good strength and flexibility allow the pineapple leaves to make a wonderful non-woven substrate.
Concerning the colors of the Piñatex fabric, till now, the Piñatex production technology companies are available to offer three colors within the Piñatex Original range: charcoal, natural, brown. Other than the Piñatex Original series, they also provide the Piñatex ORO range. The Piñatex ORO range differs from the Piñatex Original range in the manufacturing methods. The Piñatex Original series is all-natural dyes and does not require any other additional process, whereas the Piñatex ORO range needs to be joined by other metallic hues. The good news is that more of the available colors are being developed and will be coming out hopefully very soon.
Besides, regarding Piñatex’s function as a kind of textile, it is primarily utilized to make clothes, shoes, bags, wallets, mats, table linens or other fabrics. The most distinctive and amazing quality of the Piñatex fabrics is lightweight.
Additionally, as mentioned above, the manufacturing process of the Piñatex fabric is called decortication, which is the fabrication of the pineapple leaves. This production process is not only innovative but only sustainable. Specifically, the Piñatex textile is manufactured through forming a net of fibers undergoing mechanical, thermic, and chemical processes, leaving it to be a kind of non-woven textile. Apart from the manufacturing process of the Piñatex fabric per se, at the macro level, this new kind of Piñatex industry also creates benefits for the pineapple growing countries. For example, the founder of London based startup Ananas Anam Dr. Carmen Hijosa, one of the significant founders of the Piñatex industry, supports and cooperates directly with the pineapple-farming companies in the Philippines. Although there is still great potential for other productive zones in the world to fortify their exports and improve local economies, the successful establishment in the Philippines illustrates an exciting prospect.
Moreover, it is worth mentioning that the manufacturing process of the Piñatex fabric is coherently apparent to every party in the supply chain. For example, as stated by the startup Ananas Anam company on its website, the Piñatex industry primary leaders dedicate to guarantee the traceability of their supply chain. On the one side, the manufacturing companies work directly with the people involved in the productive process. On the other side, the manufacturing companies also commit themselves to connect the local farming communities in the Philippines to the next step in the supply chain by revealing their partners in the production of Piñatex. According to the statistics listed in the Ananas Anam company’s website, their initial farming relationship was established with Labo Multi Purpose Farming Cooperative. It is not only a company located in the North of the Philippines but also a community that is responsible for harvesting and collecting pineapple leaves and then decorticating the waste leaves to provide the raw fibers. Afterward, they have partnered with Asiatex Cooperative whose duty is undertaking the degumming process of the pineapple fiber. Moreover, Ananas Anam also has formed a partner relationship with NonWoven Philippines. NonWoven Philippines consists of a team of specialists whose job is creating the mesh. At the end of the production chain, where the finishing processes happen, Ananas Anam cooperated with the company Bonditex devote to converting Piñatex into a functional and well-designed textile.
This new form of industry Piñatex fabric cooperates devoted to establishing follows the “Cradle to Cradle” approach inspired by the principles of green economy and circular economy. Both the “Cradle to Cradle” approach and the green economy and circular economy principles devote to developing the maximum sustainable strategy for manufacturing. What it indicates is that the manufacturing process of the Piñatex fabric mimics nature’s regenerative cycle to reuse waste.
Furthermore, the reuse maintenance of the Piñatex fabric after its production makes it have a much less environmental footprint. During the decortication, the first stage of the manufacturing process, the residue is biomass that is able to be transformed into a type of organic fertilizer whose feature is rich in either nutrients or biofuel. Next, during the degumming process, it is guaranteed that the utilized chemicals are non-harmful and will not cause any form of damaging to the environment. Likewise, it does not involve any kind of animal product. Besides, it is also stated in the Piñatex selling website that there are no runoff, water, or pollution involved during the whole manufacturing process and the following transportation process. Thus, the whole manufacturing process of Piñatex is almost perfectly sustainable. However, the remaining problem is how to reuse the waste generated from the degumming process.
Overall, the Piñatex is considered both innovative and sustainable. The raw material of Piñatex fabric is made from pineapple leaves. And the manufacturing process of the Piñatex entails basically three processes: decortication, degumming, and design. First, the Piñatex fabric acquires its raw material from the agricultural waste, pineapple leaves. Next, the waste generated from the decortication process is biomass that can be converted into an organic fertilizer that is completely non-harmful to the environment. Nevertheless, the problem that remains to be solved is how to reuse the residue from the degumming process. From analyzing the acquisition of its raw material, the manufacturing process that consists of decortication, degumming, and design, and the waste management, it can be argued that Piñatex has an enormous potential to be a future alternative leather due to its low environmental footprint and high social impacts.
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